We began our yearly cruising season on a sunny February day, good forecast ahead and boat work done, well almost. First stop, the land of the rich and famous, Punta Fuego. Lying midway from Subic Bay to Puerto Galera, it is the most convenient and best price fuel stop in the Philippines. Fact is, it is the only place I can pull up to a dock, put a fuel hose in the tank and hand them a credit card. We top off with 1000 ltrs and are good for the season. Donna and Priam opt for a bit of luxury and head to the pool vis the handy shuttle. I join them later for dinner in the club house, where the ambiance was a perfect blend of casual elegance and refreshing sea breezes. As the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a golden hue over the water, we savored a feast of local delicacies. The laughter and camaraderie at the table reminded us why we embark on these yearly cruises, seeking both adventure and tranquility in equal measure. The next morning, with the rising sun, we set out once again, eager to explore the hidden gems of the archipelago.
Up pre-dawn and off we go, arriving at Puerto Galera Yacht club in time for lunch, secure our mooring, lunch and the well earned nap. We see several new boats in the anchorage, a few cruisers come by to say hi. It is good to see the cruising boats back in the Philippines. An estimated 400 boats left the Americas each year, venturing through the South Pacific. At the end of the trail and time to get out of cyclone season, boats take several routes, New Zealand, Australia or north into Micronesia. The Philippines got a share of these boats each year. Then Covid stopped the flow, and it has taken several years to see the boats coming back.
Our beloved Puerto Galera Yacht Club also suffered from Covid both financially and spiritually. With a new board, new members all showing great enthusiasm, the club is back in great form. We partook of the Saturday Night BBQ, the Wednesday Curry Night and the annual Valentines Day Dinner. I was thrilled to see old friends and many new ones at these events.
Being an incurable romantic and hoping to pass that spirit on to my son, we bought a bundle of individual roses, launched the dinghy and set out for our annual tradition. Our rule is every lady should get a rose on Valentines Day!!! So boat to boat we went handing out the red signs of love. We found recipients in all three anchorage areas, the ladies loved it! Some of the husbands said “you make me look bad” haha
The weather patterns have changed, at one time February would be well past the initial blast of the NE Monsoons and settled. This year it came a month later so not wanting to bash about the eastern more vulnerable areas, we headed west. Following our traditional paths down Calavite Pass around the point with a nice following swell, around the corner to the protected Paluan Bay. Dropped the anchor in calm winds set for a peaceful night when the winds picked up. I said oh only the late afternoon winds, no worries, then it picked up and no sign of stopping, we hit gusts in the 40-50 knot range, a not so restful night for sure.
Next morning found calm seas and sunshine, so we headed south to Sublayan. Known for their turtle reserve and great diver buffet, we head to the Pandan Island Resort. Donna and Priam go in early to enjoy the white sandy beach and hope turtle sightings, I follow later for dinner. The Resort charges 300pp entrance fee, reasonable for those who use the beach. As I as just coming for dinner they agreed not to charge me. I have been eating at dive resort buffets for decades, often pretty bland and simple, this one is big step above the norm.
The plan was to do a stealth attack on Apo Reef for one quick dive. Anchor up at first light, gear all prepared we hit the mooring, deployed the “fish” stabilizer so Donna did not roll around too much, popped on the gear and Priam and I descended into one of the most amazing dive sites in the country. Dropping down the mooring chain we were greeted by two enormous Bumphead Parot fish, schools of brilliantly colored small fish and beautiful coral. We dropped down the was and got the promised shark sighting. Back on the boat, fish up and mooring line removed and away all short time.
We have a nice crossing, dodged the ship in the shipping lane, gotta love that AIS, and pulled into a remote anchorage in Mingus Bay. We dropped the hook in deep warter, 30 meters, putting out chain we had not seen in a while. We carry an exceptional amount of chain, 200 meters, rarely use half of it.
The next morning we got a real idea of how well the Coron area has bounce back. As we pulled into one of fav anchorages on Coron island, we were crossed by dozens of tourist ladened bankas all heading to the wonders of the twin lake area. To our amazement the anchorage was packed. We had not prepared our shore stern line and didn’t want a hassle so we headed on.
On my maiden voyage to the Philippines in 2013, given the sound advice, go to Pearl (now Busuanga) Bay. I did just that and have been coming back yearly since then. This is truly a magical place. The “bay” is home to several boutique resorts, three original and several new ones. The yachts are hosted by Marina del Sol, who maintain the inner bay moorings. They are a quintessential yacht friendly resort. The moorings are a reasonable 320pp a night but if you spend 500pp in the resto, it is free. We were met by the beaming smile and “welcome home” hugs from the resto manager, our dear friend, Raffi. Raffi is known by the yachties, he can get anything you need; motorbikes, drinking water, even take our laundry, full service for sure.
One can fill any pallet in short dinghy rides in the bay. We tried one of the new resort/restos, Met by the crew as we pulled up to their small dock, we wandered around to the restaurant. The owner, a Brit, gave us a friendly greeting. I saw Fish and Chips on the menu, and seeing the Brit owner gave it a go, not to be disappointed. We had a lovely meal, Priam and I shared a Banana Split. Good to have another excellent dining option a short hop away.
No trip here is complete without the heart thumping hike up the hill to Al Faro Resort. Again greeted by old friends, “your back!” hugs and a bit of catching up. Al Faro boasts, without question, the best sunset bar in the world. One can enjoy a cocktail in the pool and watch the sunset below, truly stunning. And then there is Jimmy! If you are lucky to find him there, the owner is a magical Swiss Elf. His “fashion shows” and dance shows are legendary. Jimmy’s flair and creativity combined with his partner Nanita’s management have made this place an icon, don’t miss it!
History laid a golden egg on this magical area. On a warm, quite tropical morning at the end of WWII 120 US fighter bombers sank the Japanese supply fleet hiding in the bay. Today it provides some of the best and easiest wreck diving on earth. I have been diving these wrecks every year and never tire of it, always a thrill. On my first visit I met pioneer wreck diver Gunter who operated the dive shop at the resort. He showed me the ins and outs of the ships, and eventually I helped as a Dive Master. Today his son runs the shop with the help of a exuberant British couple. I did several dives with them and a couple with my cruising friends. There are two dive shops in the “Bay”, Gunter’s Dive Shop and Pirate Divers, both offer exceptional service and you avoid the crowds and longer boat runs with the town shops.
When not diving in historic Japanese wrecks, one can enjoy another type of submersion. There are three hot springs on the island. The most remote and secluded is Paraiso Hot Springs. A daunting motorbike ride takes your to this picturesque spring. Rarely seen by others it offers almost private hot soak.
The hidden gem is the Sangit Hot Springs, only accessible with “local knowledge” and by boat. Hidden deep in the mangroves it my favorite place to do the mandatory surface interval between wreck dives.
The most popular and in all regards the biggest and hottest pools are found at Maquinit Hot Springs. A short trike or motorbike ride from town is a favorite spot. Crystal clear salt water bubbles up from the ground on the shores edge. Three pools of varied temperatures provide a simply wonderful experience.
This is where our first leg ends, I discovered a failed part that has rendered us immobile, part on the way! Donna and Priam flew back to Subic Bay for soccer matches and school events, he will stay with friends a while.
update; Donna back on the boat, part arrived, jury rig fix installed and back we go. We returned to Puerto Galera to participate in the Easter Regatta. As we are the “token motor yacht” in the club we are always happy to be the VIP/photographer boat. After photographing the staggered start and following the fleet out a ways, we returned to drop anchor just off the finish line. All the “kids” from 7 to 70 enjoyed leaping off the top deck splashing into the warm Filipino water.
We had a blissful trip back to Subic Bay and bid our cruising life an end until next year. On to the next adventure, motorcycles and mountains await us.