MOTORCYCLE DIARIES prt 5

The adventures of Malaking Pula

The only ride more scenic and spectacular than going to the Glacier Highway is coming back down it. After a nice camp out and soak in nearby hot springs, down magic road we went. The Glacier was breath taking from this angle.

Going up we talked to a tourist info ranger who told us that the parking at the famed Lake Louise was booked solid, if we go we will be turned back. Later we talked to a few riders who told us bikes are welcome, which we found to be true. 

Lale Louise is a sight to behold, glacier fed, surrounded by majestic peaks, and a sight thousands or visitors behold on a busy day.  Donna got her long sought after photo op and down we went. This time we took a different path, towards Radium and Radium Hot Springs. It was leaving Radium that the events of part 3 unfolded so let’s skip ahead.

Bike all fixed friends hugged and teased, back to Banff we go. We find a fantastic campground, just outside the hustle and bustle of Banff, but I quick ride away. Donna has a few sights on her “list”, and I to the Banff hot springs.

Our faithful tow truck driver and told us about a rarely traveled mountain pass leaving Banff and going south along the Rockies so off we go! His advise was spot on, incredible scenery and the notable, highest paved road in Canada at over 7000ft.

Along the way we had to stop as several groups of Rocky Mountain Big Horn Sheep were grazing along the road and seemed to be licking salt from the pavement, spectacular beasts for sure.

We left the heights, the chill and scenery and followed another known path south then west. After a few nights of camping we got a hotel room, ahh sheets we love you.

Our next stop would be the second motorcycles only campground, Toad Road Campground. A pleasant ride, then what is touted as the longest free ferry ride and we pulled into Toad Road. We were greeted by a rosy, grey haired lady who had no record of our reservation, but found us a cabin. Here the cabins are a conglomerate of sheds, old busses, and one, oh the 60s were great, VW bus. Each cabin is named, ours was FAR, more a geographical comment than literate.

 We unloaded our gear, snooped around then headed back to the ferry landing pub for dinner. The waiter mentioned the cook was from Cape Brenton in eastern Canada, which quickly brought an old fav music group to mind, the Rankin Family. The area is known for music and fish, so I had the fish n chips. As we were checking out the cook, who may have been “cooking with wine” met us. He knew the Rankins, he was so overjoyed to find another fan he comped my dinner!

One of the draws of Toad Road is the abundance of short, scenic day rides one can take starting there, so we followed the tip. Our ride took us up the lake to Ainsworth Hot Springs. Of all the fantastic hot springs in BC this might be my favorite. The springs originate deep inside a Ushaped cave. The hot water creates a steam room in the caves. It is sublime! A few day rides and a soak later we packed up again, but not far. Donna found a lovely campsite on a small lake, geese and all.

The heat of the low lands mounted making riding a bit sweltering so we found another lakeside campground, dipped in the cool water and relaxed.

Escaping the heat we went north again, to a land full of waterfalls we had heard of, Donna does love her waterfalls like I love my hot springs.  The tip turned golden some of the most spectacular waterfalls we have ever seen. Another score on a great campsite, almost alone in the wooded tent area until the next day.

After we left the Jasper area a wildfire broke out, this one was moving fast and out of control. They evacuated the entire town and national park. Thousands of acres and half the town burned, tragic.  Refugees from the fire hit the campground, now we had plenty of company. Small world, our neighbors were from my hometown, Silverdale, the dad graduated form my high school albeit a few decades apart, go Cougars!!  We awoke the next day and poor Malaking Pula was covered in ashes that hand traveled over one hundred miles.

Our time in Canada coming to an end we slowly worked towards Vancouver. We found a First Nations run campground along the shores of the upper Frasier River.  The grounds had an historic native village, so we took a look, no natives but we did camp next to a large Filipino family.

Our slow decent took us to the historic town of Hope. This was the site of the filming of the first Rambo movie, First Blood. One can take a virtual guided tour of the film sites, most gone now.  There are life sized statues of the evil sheriff, and Rambo himself. The historic movie theater runs the Rambo movie on Friday nights. The gift shop has a life sized cut out I posed by with an authentic replica of the knife Stalone used.

The adventure now ran full circle, last stop Harrison Hot Springs. The Filipino couple who ran our hotel were glad to meet Donna. The weather had turned so she never got to see the majestic snow covered peaks that line the lake. I had sent her pics on my firs stop so she knew they were there.

Donna, now in hyper shopping mode, was eager to get to Vancouver. She got two days of gift buying.  Funny I will return with a small carry one bag, she had two check in pieced of luggage haha.

I sent her off to catch her middle of the night flight, your Uber awaits, so incredibly sad to see her go.

I reflected on all the “firsts’ she had experienced, from her perch on the Harley. First mountains, first deserts, so many geographical things. I also pondered the things we take for granted; late summer day light, she had never seen daylight past 6:30pm, first cold, brr below 20c. Then the less renowned things, first $20 hamburger, first junkies asleep in the streets, first raving druggy, first homeless tents on the sidewalk, all the symbols of modern western living.

Sad to lose my riding companion and love, I then sent out on the next great American adventure alone, off to the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally!